2017 Domaine Mongeard Mugneret Bourgogne Rouge
Sometimes this happens – a boy and a girl meet, they fall in love, and decide to spend their lives together pursuing a single passion.
That’s what happened with Eugene Mongeard and Edmee Mugneret, many moons ago. Because both of them were descended from families in Vosne Romanee, the heartland of amazing Grand Cru Pinot Noir, and due to French law, they together ended up forming a super-group of some of the most prime districts that Pinot was ever planted in.
But it wasn’t always this way. The “domaine,” such as it had been for some 300 years, was mostly share-cropped, with the two families farming the land and then selling off the fruit to larger negociants. It wasn’t until 1945 that none other than the great Henri Gouge told a very young Jean Mongeard to stop selling fruit to him, because the fruit was too good to sell. In other words he said, “stop giving me your best of best – and bottle it yourself, you young upstart.” Jean was just 16 at the time, having taken the reins upon his dad’s death, he and proceeded to farm, vinify, and produce his own wine. Thus was born a domaine of amazing complexity of flavors:
The label of course reds only “Bourgogne Rouge” = Pinot Noir. But one must remember that these are the families of Vosne. And while not all of “90210” may be as exclusive as the other parts, we’re still in rarified, seriously good drinking territory right from the start: The nose explodes with a beautiful display of Pinot Noir fruit: cherries, raspberries, cranberries, hints of orange and baking spice. There’s loads to explore here, to the point that you really can’t get enough, because it’s ever-evolving.
The palate offers up the signature one-two punch of Burgundy: lovely delineation for fruit, but with tension and firmness across the palate. Those in the know will sense the Vosne origins right from the first glass – you’re drinking like Charlemagne, and its good to be the King of Burgundy. The finish is long, fresh and mineral. The wine drinks superbly right now, but will lay down for at least another decade.
Hard to pronounce? You bet (my guess would be Mon-Gerard, Moon-ya-ray). Entirely drinkable? Yes indeed. Go ahead, slaughter the name when you try to buy it. I always have, and I still do. But trust me – Vincent Mongeard wants this wine in your glass, and wants a smile on your face. Order with reckless diction and enjoy!