Bernard Remy Champagne Carte Blanche
Not all wine is created equal – but the best grapes have the potential, when lovingly coaxed by an expert winemaker, to make the finest wine. I posit this to point out that there is great drinking, from fine grapes, at spectacular prices, in Champagne. We just need to do a little hunting. And hunt I have.
Let me introduce the tiny Champagne house Bernard Remy, which is really just one guy – Rudy Remy, although his father Bernard is never far from hand. Bernard founded the estate more than 50 years ago in the heart of the grand cru area of the Cote Blancs, in the tiny hamlet of Allemant.
The Remys, like many in Champagne, were originally farmers. They sold off their prized fruit to negociant Champagne houses. When Bernard took over the family business, he wasn’t satisfied with the arrangement. He wanted something of his own, and something more high-caliber than the generic, sourced and blended-away grapes of the big houses. So he began making, bottling and aging his own Champagne. The results are indeed deeply satisfying:
The Carte Blanche opens with the hallmark rich Champagne aromas of brioche and baking spices, mixed with hints of rose petals and fresh-picked strawberries. It’s a Pinot Noir-based Champagne, though, so it’s chock-full of flavor on the palate, having a sleek body of richness while at the same time being elegantly assertive. Rudy firmly believes that the character of the fruit should not be covered up, so he adds just a whisper of dosage (and no sulfur) at disgorgement. The wine was aged on the lees for two years, and all of this adds up to a magnificent and powerful finish. This Champagne speaks to the palate as well as the soul.
Now I, like everyone else, would love to drink Champagne every day. Why not? In victory, you deserve it. In defeat you need it. And at every other time as well – to make a syllogism of Madame Bollinger and Napoleon. And yet, even this deep-troughed Wilbur of a wine drinker can’t always afford real Champagne.
That is why I jumped at this deal. French Champagne, Small Grower, Sourced from the grand cru area of Champagne? At this price? Not possible. Or maybe never possible again… jump on this, and roll right on through the holidays in style!
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