Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Lamm 2017
Lamm’s the big boy, the wound-up powerhouse, the long-term ager. If you think it’s expensive, just understand that it competes with Grand Cru white Burgundy at every level. And think of those prices. We don’t get it every year, and this year we got just a small quantity.
Terry Theise notes:
“Lamm as a rule is buckwheat-y, rusky, savory but not thick, like a vegetable-veal stock with barley, yet oddly also like lamb itself. Its poise of gloss and power, intensity and outline, mass and transparency are emblems of the paradox without which no wine is truly great.
“If Renner commences the birds to sing, Lamm commences the wolves to howl. Yet this ’17 appears to be a stunning and almost gentle version of the powerhouse. Vetiver, secret sweetness, and the dark-dough ruskiness is still incipient. As always it’s rich yet sleek, focused but strong.”