Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre 2019
There are many Reverdys in Sancerre, but there is only one Hippolyte Reverdy.
Why have you perhaps never heard of this benchmark producer? Because year in and year out, Waterford gets allocated a single case, and a wildly charming southern woman and her betrothed Lawrence Welk lookalike snap it all up.
Now, amazingly enough, I got a real allocation—enough to share with you lovers of great terroir!
This wine is, according to the importer Kermit Lynch, “one of the few remaining vignerons in France who truly live like a paysan [peasant]. No vacation, no travel, ever. He’s happy just to stay on the farm, working seven days a week, and wanting nothing more and nothing less. Under [his] direction the quality of the estate’s blanc has risen to become ‘the benchmark domaine of our day.’”
That’s high praise indeed from one the U.S.’s most storied importers of French wine. There is a reason this wine is so highly allocated: It’s amazing. But in a very particular way, I think.
Here is classic Sancerre, the way you would have it before the New Zealand SB revolution or Didier Dangenau’s forays into botrytis cuvees. This is Sancerre that packs a strong mineral punch to the nose, and a chalky tension across the palate. It echoes of the soils that it came from, and its crisp palate is super intense, linear and direct. There are many of you (like me) who enjoy this kind of focused, dry-extract, thirst-developing white wine, though it’s not for everyone. Its intensity is unrivaled and magnificent to taste!
And amazingly… in this vintage, not only was I allocated more than one case, but I got it at a sales price as well. Enjoy during these hot summer days. But don’t worry, it’ll last long in your cellar as well.