Moussé Fils Millésime “Terres d’Illite” Brut, 2012
What is going on at Moussé Champagne?
I write that not rhetorically –
When I first start with Moussé, the story is a charming one: “Dad’s a nursery guy in the Valle de Marne, well known for it, and also makes some Champagne on the side. His Champagne is Meunier, rich, solid, and cheap for grower Champagne. Fun stuff in the earthy fruity way of Meunier.”
Imagine my surprise when Cedric Moussé, started getting a buzz about him in the somm and fancy online communities relating him to the uber-cult freshman Cedric Bouchard of Roses de Jeanne (whose wines I adore and I wish I could stock again). Humble dad of farming lobster-claw hands becomes overnight the hottest new kid on the block? Well, that is what happened, and these Champagnes are stunning.
Wine and vineyard, and business and money transitions are not easy in France between generations, but this one seems to have done it admirably. In my eight years selling these wines, Dad has given son full reign, and Cedric Moussé is completely reimagining what can be done.
The winery is Vallee de Marne and the wines are dominated by Meunier (all the Chardonnay goes to a Blanc de Blancs and there is only 20% Pinot Noir across the entire estate). I would never claim myself to be a lover of Meunier but really, truly, these Champagnes are shockingly on point. Here Meunier is crisp but yummy, full yet also minerally, and not earthy or fat. They are present, expressive, and individualistic. They are not just an intellectual reconsideration of what Meunier can be, but they are also a pleasurable experience of clear-cut, precise, small-grower Champagne. In short, these are right up my alley.
We have two on offer today and I will turn it over to Terry Theise, longtime importer and author to take away the descriptions:
“I’m sure we’ll start referring to this as “Lord Eugene” [we already do] at some point, we’re such wags. It replaces/updates the old NV (which was called “Noire Réserve”).
With this (and with his superb Vins Clairs) you can really see how Cédric has reached cruising altitude. It’s now 2013/2014, 80- 20 PM-PN. I think and have always thought it’s the ideal for Meunier NV; thoroughly delicious but not an avalanche of chocolate and pumpernickel. There are even hints of chalk. It doesn’t pander with “big fruit” but stays bright and clear, and has a long yummy finish. Meunier for the thoughtful hedonist.
Moussé Fils Millésime “Terres d’Illite” Brut, 2012 ++
This is Cédric’s best wine to date, and gives a thrilling glimpse of what lies ahead for this outstanding vintner. This is 100% from Cuisles, which a local broker calls “The Grand Cru of Meunier,” and with this wine you can clearly see why. Disg. 2/2016, it’s actively minerally—Meunier! It has the most intricately non-fruit profile I’ve ever encountered from this variety. Salty, long, fascinating, the core of Meunier that’s hidden below the pretty stuff. A dignity. It’s para-sensual, beautiful and serious, with herbal notes and spelt bread.
What is going on at Mousse? Some killer Champagnes. Get them before, like Cedric Bouchard, they are completely allocated and four times the price!